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        I applied a bit of my beeswax/mineral oil finish to the area that will become the rim of the bowl in hopes it would soften the fibers a bit and reduce chip out.  If I had been planning to use Danish Oil as a finish I would have used that.  Sanding sealer might work by binding the fibers together, but I have never tried it for that purpose.  I moved the toolrest around and began working on the bottom of the bowl.  The first step was to excavate some material and form a tenon to mount in the chuck when the bowl is reversed.  I then started to shape the underside of the legs and the bottom of the bowl.  The cuts on the underside of the legs are made towards center while the cuts on the bottom of the bowl are made away from center, so you need to keep working both areas to give the tool room to advance.

   

Photo #7:  Tenon cut                                                  Photo #8:  Working the bottom

        You need to get the legs cut to their finished thickness as you go since they will become flexible and you won't be able to eliminate chatter if you get too far ahead on the depth before trying to cut to finished thickness.  Stop the lathe frequently to check your progress.  In Photo #10 I have actually reached the point where the rim is fully developed, but there is almost no lip between the rim and the bowl wall.  If I were to stop there I would not be able to remove that nasty chip from the bottom of the one foot without screwing up the rim shape so I continue the curve of the underside of the legs until I have a lip of about 3/8" between the rim and the bowl wall.

    

Photo #9:  Rim shape developing                Photo #10:  Almost there

        In Photo #11 I have made my final pass down the bowl wall into the undercut area and left a small ridge right in the corner.  To clean it up I used my side ground gouge with the flute rolled right over to almost the 3 o'clock position and the gouge horizontal.  I picked up a very light cut in the undercut area of the rim and cut toward the bowl wall.  As the point of the gouge reached the bowl wall the lower wing began to shear scrape on the bowl wall and I withdrew the tool in a light shear scrape up the side of the bowl.  That left a nice crisp corner.

   

Photo #11:  Rim lip established.                            Photo #12:  Turning complete on bowl bottom

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